Week 15. More cake. But as the title of this post ‘hilariously’ suggests, we moved away from the predominantly flour based sponges and in to mousse cake territory.

Most of these cakes followed a similar format. Some kind of sponge base, ‘inserts’ made either from more sponge or set crème anglaise based layers flavoured with anything from lemon and raspberry to mint, surrounded with some kind of mousse set with gelatin. These cakes get finished with different techniques. Glazes, cake walls, ‘pate decor’, we even got to get the chocolate spray-gun out.

Here are a few examples (for some reason I didn’t get as many pics as usual):

Fresh Fruit Charlotte: Lady finger base and walls, separate lemon and berry inserts, diplomat cream, all topped with fresh fruit. One of my favourites of the week.

Lemon & Blackberry Mousse Cake: Full on presentation on this one. Dacquase sponge base, blackberry insert, lemon mousse, a cake wall of biscuit jaonde decorated with pate decor, finished with a marbled neutral glaze. Pheeeww.

White Chocolate, Pistachio and Raspberry Mousse Cake: Pistachio and raspberry sponge base, raspberry insert, white chocolate mousse, finished with a half scollop motif, tinted white chocolate spray, and white macarons, which we started making this week, but will do more of next.

Vanilla Bavarian: Muscavado sugar sable Breton base, vanilla sponge insert, vanilla mousse all coated in white chocolate, again applied with the spray gun, and again tinted.

I’m going to be honest, the majority of the cakes left me a bit cold. Don’t get me wrong, the ingredients are all great (cream, sugar, fruit, booze, cake – whats not to like?), but I think I’m basically not that fond of the texture that the gelatin. Also, and this may not make much sense as all the individual elements have to be made, but for me these cakes felt like they were more assembly jobs than anything.

They are also not really my bag aesthetically. Making them was fun, and it was definitely good to learn some new techniques, but most of them look to me like they could be at home on the open seas on a cruise ship circa 1987, or in a slightly pretentious restaurant. I guess I just don’t find ‘modern’ presentation that appetising.

Next week, our penultimate week of study, covers macarons, chocolate, confectionery and petit fours followed by a two day practical and a bakery tour. It’s gonna be big.

Feels a bit odd writing about cake when there’s all this shit going down in London, so to that end I’m going to do what I promised in my last post. Be brief.

So another week, another cake mountain. The cakes last week were definitely more technical than the week before. We compared and contrasted the differences between fat based and egg based sponges, including Génoise and Chiffon, as well as making a bunch of different fillings and icings.

Here are a few highlights:

The Fraisier – a light vanilla sponge sandwiching fresh strawberries and mouselline, all topped off with a marzipan disc. Summer in cake form.

Black Forest Gateaux – a modern twist on the German classic. Kirsch spiked chocolate sponge sandwiching a filling of Chantilly and brandied cherries, covered in cherry cream. Das ist gut, ya!

Sachertorte – from Vienna with love. A dense chocolate and almond sponge, a bit of apricot jam, all smothered with a pretty thick layer of chocolate. Always served with a dollop of whipped cream.

Opera – my winner of the week. Thin, dense sponge soaked in sweetened coffee. Two layers of chocolate ganache, one of coffee buttercream, all topped off with a chocolate glaze. Moist, sophisticated and tres tasty.

The Concorde – alternating layers of chocolate meringue and chocolate ganache surrounded by and topped with ‘cigarettes’ of chocolate meringue. Richer than Donald Trump, but with better hair.

The final two days of the week we made wedding cakes. Yep, you heard me right. Wedding cakes. In fact we made two, one more traditional iced with buttercream, and the other we had more creative license.

Here are a few of the results. And yes that is a Pac Man cake. And yes it’s mine. More on this in another post.

So thats it for week 14. Next week we’re doing yet more cakes, and moving into chocolate and confectionery. Until then, I hope all you Londoners are well. Don’t let the buggers get you down.

We’ve got a busy month ahead with family and friends visiting SF, and I’m already behind with my posts. This may not end well. Thinking I’m going to try and make the next couple as brief as possible so I can catch up. More photos, less words. Capisce?

So the week before last was week 13. Unlucky for some, but not for us, as this was the week we started to make cake, and as always, lots of it.

The week started off in a not entirely cakey way with baking a bunch of scones. Being the cosseted Englishman that I am, I didn’t realise how popular these tea-time treats are with the rest of the world. The Yanks and the Aussies in particular seem to love them. But unfortunately no jam or clotted cream was harmed in the making of these recipes, as they tend to be filled with dried fruit and nuts over here, and eaten dry. Also, the scones over here are almost universally triangular shaped, as they are cut from a circular slabs. The heathens! We made them in two ways (butter and cream based formulas) and in a whole range of flavours, including walnut and apricot, lemon and poppy seed, white chocolate and cranberry, currant and so on.

We then moved on to what are known over here as ‘quick breads’. Simple cakes of the kind you’d cook in a loaf tin. We made banana bread, pumpkin bread, marble cake, cake aux fruits (or fruit cake to you and me), and pound cake. I like a good banana bread, but most of them seemed a bit bland to me. My favourite was probably the pound cake, baked in a bundt pan with a simple lemon icing. It could definitely use more lemony zing taking a few lessons from my Mum’s lemon drizzle cake, but it’s a cake with some potential for sure.

‘Coffee Cakes’ came next, which are not to be confused with a coffee flavoured cakes. Believe you me, this stumped me for a while, I was tasting cakes thinking ‘yeah it’s nice, but I can’t taste any coffee’. Yes, these are cakes which are simply to be enjoyed with a cup of coffee. We made a couple of these, one with a jam filling and a streusel topping, and the other jam packed with apples, which was the better of the two in my humble opinion. A good balance of sweet and tart.

The cake making went up a gear towards the end of the week , starting with the rather curious ‘Angel Food Cake’. Again this was a new one on me. Essentially a meringue cake, it’s made from a shed load of egg whites and sugar, with a tiny bit of cake flour throw in for good measure. Insanely sweet, white and fluffy, I don’t really get the point of it, but they are hugely popular here being sold in their millions from Wholefoods to Safeway.

To make up for this cake abomination, we then made (IMHO) the two best cakes of the week. A classic carrot cake with a cream cheese frosting, and the chocolate and hazelnut dacquoise. The former needs no introduction. Moist, sweet and a bit nutty as it should be, but the dacquoise is more of a complicated beast. Two layers of chocolate sponge, one layer of hazelnut dacquoise style sponge, filled and covered with a praline flavoured butter-cream. Pretty intense, but pretty damn tasty too.

Over the course of the week, we also got re-acquainted with the dreaded piping bag with a number of boot camp style piping sessions. Learning different shapes, styles, borders and techniques it became clear very quickly that it’s a real skill, one which I’m pretty sure I wasn’t born with. But I’m getting better. We also started writing in chocolate, which is another matter altogether. The example pictured on the cake above came from the hand of Frank, our instructor, as I’m way to embarrassed to show my own efforts, but lets just say that if a report on them was written by my old school master they would have been described as ‘infantile’.

So that was week 13. I tried to be brief, but it seems I failed. We’ve got a whole more cake to come next week, so bring a fork and a plate people.

I realised the other day that I hadn’t done a ‘Local Hero’ for AGES, and by chance I happened to pass The Market Coffee House the very same day. Serendipity in the truest sense.

When I was thinking about the whole ‘Local Hero’ side to this blog, The Market Coffee House was exactly the kind of place that I had in mind. Special, but unpretentious, and quietly plugging away at doing what they do best without all the bluster, PR and twitter noise that’s become so common.

I first started going to The Market Coffee House when I worked around the corner in Spitalfields what now seems like ages ago. Before the days of the Aussie and Kiwi coffee shops, the MCH was my go to place for a decent cup of coffee. Back then, it was the only café I can remember that had proper Baristas who took great care and attention over each and every cup. They also sold their coffees in the smaller cups that have now become more familiar. Quality over quantity before it was fashionable.

Another reason it’s one of my favourite places in London, is it’s atmosphere. Although it’s only been open as a coffee shop since 2001, it has such a warm, worn-in quality, that it feels like it could have been servicing the local area since Victorian times. The wood paneling, bare floorboards and original features make it really cosy, and as far from a modern coffee chain as you can get.

The food is good too. Until a year or so ago it was known more for simple, but always tasty stuff like bagels, sandwiches, crab salads, soups, and awesome cakes, but they have recently expanded the premises, including a ‘proper kitchen’, which means their offering is now much broader. When I heard that they were making the MCH bigger, I was a bit worried about the outcome, but I needn’t have been. The extension has been done with such sympathy and faithfulness to the original premises that it feels like it’s always been there, and the more substantial food likewise. It was the only choice for my wife and I to feed our post wedding hangovers.

As you might have guessed, I’m a big fan, so if you’re in the area, I strongly suggest you pop in for a coffee and a slice of something sweet at the very least.

As I’m sure I’ve mentioned before, I’ve learned quite a lot from my mother in cooking terms over the years. For the most part its been a case of me picking up stuff by watching her at work, but every now and then I’ll steal a recipe or two off her too.

This cake is one of those firm family favourites, and it even gets the royal seal of approval from my very sweet, but ever so fussy niece, Ksenia. It’s a bit tangier than most lemon drizzle cakes because of there’s more lemon juice in the glaze, and that’s how we like it.

Ingredients

For the cake

125g unsalted butter

175g self-raising flour

175g caster sugar

2 large eggs

Zest of 2 lemons

4 tablespoons of milk

A pinch of salt

Butter for greasing your loaf tin

For the ‘drizzle’

The juice of 2 lemons (about 6 tablespoons)

Zest of 1 lemon

100g icing sugar

Method

You’re going to bake this cake in a loaf tin, so first up, prepare and line it. Use a half kilo tin, smear it with butter, and then line with greaseproof paper. Now set your oven to 180 c to get it up to cooking temp.

Now cream together the butter and the sugar in a large mixing bowl; it makes life a whole lot easier, and the process faster if your butter is at room temperature. Creaming basically means beating the butter and the sugar together until it attains a ‘creamy’ texture. You can do this with a wooden spoon, but a hand whisk will save your arms.

Next add the two eggs and the lemon zest and beat them well into the butter and sugar mixture. Now fold in the flour and the salt. You want to mix in all the flour, but you don’t want to beat the hell out of the mixture, so do it gently with a spatula or something similar. Finally mix in the milk, which loosens the mixture a tad.

Pour the mixture into the loaf tin, shake from side to side so it levels out, and then pop onto the middle shelf of the oven. The cake is going to cook for around 45 minutes. When ready it will have risen, and the outside will be a dark golden brown.

When the cake is almost ready, make the drizzle. Put the lemon juice, icing sugar and zest into a small saucepan and heat until the sugar has dissolved. The syrup shouldn’t boil, but will be hot.

When you think the cake is ready, slide a sharp knife into the centre. If it comes out clean, it’s ready to come out, if not put it back in for another 4 or 5 minutes. As soon as you’ve taken the cake out of the oven, perforate it’s surface all over with a toothpick by sticking it in about half way. You’re doing this to help the syrup sink into the sponge whilst it’s still warm, and it’s well worth taking the time to make sure the top is properly peppered with holes.

Now pour the drizzle all over the top, trying to make sure it is absorbed evenly. The cake will have risen more at the centre so the syrup will naturally run towards the edges, so make sure you keep spooning it over the middle.

Now the hard bit, you have to wait until the cake is completely cooled before cutting it or it will crumble. When it is finally ready to eat, serve with a nice cuppa, or as a pudding with some Greek yoghurt ever so slightly sweetened with maple syrup or honey.

Veal had a bit of a bad rep in the 80s, but that didn’t stop the veal escalope becoming one of my favourite things to eat when I was growing up. There used to be this great Italian restaurant called La Baita up the road from my folk’s place in North London that we’d to go to on a pretty regular basis. I pretty much always ordered the veal escalope, which was served with sauteed potatoes and deep fried courgette. Not exactly healthy, but very tasty.

This is a bit of a remix of that childhood favourite. The prep is a bit fiddly, but well worth it.

Ingredients

For the Veal

2 veal escalopes

Seasoned plain flour

Thyme, finely chopped

Breadcrumbs (enough to coat both escalopes – 250 ish g)

1 egg, beaten

For the Courgette & Potato Cake

1 large potato, grated

3 courgettes, grated

1 medium onion, finely sliced

1 large clove of garlic, finely chopped

1 chilli

Handful of grated Parmesan cheese

Grated nutmeg

Salt and pepper to taste

2 medium eggs

Olive oil

Method

Start by preparing the the cake. Grate the potato and courgette, and then finely slice the onion (in a food processor if you have one). Turn out onto a clean tea towel, bunch up and squeeze the excess moisture out of the grated veggies. Place in a bowl and add the chopped chilli, finely chopped garlic, Parmesan cheese, salt, pepper and a few grates of nutmeg. Mix together, crack in the two eggs, mix again thoroughly and then set aside.

Now prep the veal. Scatter plain flour on a large plate and season with salt and pepper, then take another plate and scatter on the breadcrumbs. Chop the thyme, and then mix into the crumbs. Finally beat an egg in a flat bottomed bowl. Take each escalope, pat dry with kitchen towel, and then coat with the seasoned flour. Pat off the excess and then dip in the egg, covering the surface of the meat. Then coat with the breadcrumbs, patting down to make sure the escalope is covered, and then set aside.

Get a large frying pan on the heat, and coat with olive oil. Decant the courgette and potato mixture into the pan and flatten with the back of a spatula to form an even cake about an inch thick, and then turn on your grill to maximum. Cook on the hob for around 5 minutes. Turn up the side of the cake with the spatula, once it’s a dark golden brown, pop it under the grill for another five mintes.

Whilst the courgette and potato cake is in the oven, get another frying pan on the heat. Add some rapeseed or groundnut oil to the pan, and when it’s good and hot, pop in the breaded veal escalopes. Fry on each side for around one minute, or until golden brown. Remove from the pan, rest on kitchen towel to remove excess oil, and you’re ready to eat.

Serve with a slice of the courgette and potato cake, a parsley, red onion and cucumber salad dressed with a nice mustardy vinaigrette, and a wedge of lemon. Buon appetito!