So to much hype and fanfare, Marmite has launched a new limited edition product, Marmite XO. Billed as the only choice for true Marmite connoisseurs, XO (Extra Old) purports to have a deeper, richer, more complex flavour, like a fine wine.

Now off the bat, I should probably admit that I’m a Marmite fan. I love the stuff. Always have done, probably always will. But I’ve got to admit that there’s something about Marmite’s recent behaviour thats beginning to piss me off a bit. I was quite into the Guinness variant that came out a couple of years ago, and then the champagne one that came out around Valentine’s Day. Neither tasted as good as the original, but they felt a bit special. No song and dance, just a nice little treat for Marmite fans.

But now with the whole XO marketing campaign, premium price tag, ’spoof’ website and Facebook blah blah blah, it all feels a bit of a cynical money making operation. It stinks of Unilever’s clumsy brand police and ad agencies trying to be ever so clever.

And it doesn’t stop here, there was a ‘pop up shop’ on Regents Street at Christmas selling all sorts of branded rubbish like cook books, toys, T shirts, and then there’s the current brand campaign. The whole we’re so ‘crazy’ that we’ve made a Marmite cereal bar!! Have we gone to far?! Did I mention that we’re kkeerrraazzee??!! Replete with the now ubiquitous ’social media’ elements, again the whole thing feels so try hard, and to be frank, predictable.

Anyway, rant over. I tried the XO earlier and it’s nice. Beefier and maybe a little fuller flavoured than the original, but not really any better. And definitely really not worth all the bother, or the £3.99 price tag. In my mind its time these big companies and conglomerates stopped screwing with the brands that people love and just kept it simple. More noise doesn’t make better products.

Verdict: All mouth and no trousers.